Las Galeras, Camping at El Cabito, and Playa Madama

During the Semana Santa holiday (known as Easter weekend in the U.S.) we decided to drive all the way to the northeast tip of DR on the Samaná peninsula. Our first destination was the El Cabito restaurant and camp ground. El Cabito is not your average restaurant setting. It is a wooden platform perched precariously over sheer cliffs overlooking the crashing ocean waves. The restaurant seats only about 20 people, and the food is cooked in a small hut nearby. There are camping spaces for about 8 tents, and the place offers cold showers and restrooms for campers. We felt safe as the place is secluded, and the European owners have their house just a stone’s throw from the campground. You can also rent hammocks for the night, although they are in huts with a roof but not much in terms of walls. In other words, you don’t get any privacy from the other campers.

El Cabito is probably most famous as the place to watch sunsets, although we were not fortunate to have clear weather on the two nights we spent there. We had our own treat of beautiful tumultuous clouds and stormy seas, which was also charming. With the mist, cold wind, and green pastures, the place actually reminded us of Scotland. Not what you’d expect from the Caribbean!

The drive to El Cabito is somewhat of an experience. It’s safe to say you need a four-wheel drive vehicle to get there, as there are muddy sections and some steep climbs. We did see people walking, which I think would take about 20 minutes to half an hour. You can also take a motorcycle from town, but I can only imagine that the ride must leave the passenger feeling very sore. The unpaved road winds through farmland and empty lots, but with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.

The food at El Cabito was very tasty. We ordered the fresh catch, and you can see the picture of how enormous the fish was! Our friend who recommended the place said the fish in coconut sauce is unbeatable.

By far the best experience we had from El Cabito was to hike to Playa Madama. The proprietor said the hike takes 30 minutes, but that’s only if you know the route! I took us about 2 hours, and the walk is through some dense jungle that has been roughly cleared by machete. You will need to remind yourself during this walk that DR has no poisonous snakes, because your legs will disappear beneath hedges and brush as you push through the trail. Definitely wear closed toe shoes and pants so as not to end up with scraped legs. Most of the walk, however, is through open paths that are quite comfortable. Someone has marked the trail with red flags, but they are intermittent so you need to use your inner Magellan to find the way. You will pass beautiful cliffs that are composed of a Martian-like porous rock. In the distance you can see lush mountains climbing out from the oceanside. It’s really breathtaking scenery.

And then you reach Playa Madama, which really takes your breath away. The inaccessibility of the beach keeps tourists away, so you have the place to yourselves. The snorkeling would be great here, or just enjoying the turquoise water. We didn’t make it to Playa Fronton, which is an additional walk, but the pictures online show that Playa Fronton is really the crown jewel of this area. If you’re in to hiking, I suggest researching how to continue the trek to Playa Fronton.

As for the town of Las Galeras itself, it has one main street with some restaurants and bars but is otherwise quiet. It is definitely not like Cabarete, Las Terrenas, or any of the larger seaside towns. We heard that Le Taino is the best restaurant in town. We opted instead for an Italian eatery run by an Italian couple. We ate there for lunch, and could not resist going back for dinner! It was some of the most deliciously authentic Italian food I’ve had outside of Italy. Food prices are not cheap here though, as food is generally expensive in DR. Expect to pay US$10 or so per entrée at a casual eatery.

There are two public beaches walkable from Las Galeras – the main public beach at the end of the main road, and La Playita about 20 minutes walk away. Both are decent, but are not spectacular compared to other beaches in the area.

 

The dirt road to El Cabito.

 

The dirt road to El Cabito.

 

The dirt road to El Cabito.

 

El Cabito restaurant, perched above the cliff.

 

El Cabito camping grounds.

 

Looking down toward the restaurant (under the thatched roof).

 

Camping at El Cabito.

 

The view over the bay.

 

 

 

 

Our fish dinner at El Cabito.

 

On a wet, gray day, the landscape kind of reminded us of Scotland!

 

You can see that the path to Playa Madama is not very clearly marked! It snakes through this brush.

 

The path to Playa Madama.

 

Passing beautiful cliffs on our way to Playa Madama.

 

 

 

 

Arrived! How beautiful is this secluded beach of Playa Madama?

 

 

 

Just past Playa Madama are some more beautiful scenes.

 

 

 

 

I forgot to mention that in Las Galeras town is a wonderful breakfast place called "Casa Por Qué No?" It is a B&B run by a French-Canadian couple who cook the breakfasts themselves and serve you. The breakfast was wonderful value. I recommend the salty pancake (really a version of a crepe) and the French Toast.